Travels with V

Icaria, Greece

round-line-left-arrow
PARTS

round-line-right-arrow

Icaria
– a very different greek island

We’re not quite sure why we chose Icaria as our holiday destination, but probably because we read about it several years ago when we were collecting odd places in the Greek archipelago. And when we decided to try a different kind of holiday – staying in the same place for a la couple of weeks – the idea of Icaria came up again. And the more we read about it, the more enthusiastic we became.

The name “Icaria” has to do with the legend of Icarus. He who flew too close to the sun and crashed in the sea when his wings melted . And the island where he landed is Icaria according to the local mythology. 

Most people have probably never heard of Icaria, but it’s famous for being a so called “Blue Zone”, where locals live extremely long lives. But also because the food is particularly delicious and that it’s an “unknown gem” in the Aegean Sea. And that’s exactly what we want to investigate.

For centuries, Icaria has been a remote outpost, forgotten even by the politicians of Athens, and although ferries from Piraeus find their way here, it wasn’t until 1995 that Icaria got an airport. It was placed on the flattest part of the island, a promontory, but it still took tonnes of fill in the sea to make the runway long enough for small propeller planes to land.

But elsewhere there’s nothing flat on Ikaria. An elongated island about 40 km x 9 km with a mountain ridge that with peaks over one thousand meters over sea level span from east to west. So most of the ground leans. Everywhere. All roads bend in endless serpentines. There is no such thing as a straight road.

5 good-to-know-things about Icaria:

  1. Getting there: By air from Athens, or by boat from Piraeus. If you find a cheap flight to Samos You can take a ferry from there.
  2. Stay: A few Air B’n’B:s, most of them in quite remote places. Small hotels are found in the major villages. Karimalis winery (see below!) has Farm Stay.
  3. Best beach: Livadi/Mesachti. Two lovely sand strips next to each other with deck chairs, restaurant/bar and toilet. Simply perfect.
  4. Best food: Karimalis winery in Piyi near Christos. Anna’s fish tavern in Nas. Klimataria in Agios Kirykos. And of course Apostolis in Maganitis.
  5. Don’t miss: Reserve a  rent car well in advance, it’s the only way of getting around. Hike on the old “monopatia”-paths. Tour on horseback or by bike. Swim in the warm spring in Therma. Climb Koskinas Castle, if you’ve got strong legs!
Fortsätt läsa här

To be able to farm the land and stay alive the Icarians had to find a way to fertilize the stony hillsides. The solution was to build terraces, and they have since many hundreds of years built terraces all over the island. Many of them are still in use, especially for growing olive trees and vines. 

Icaria has always been a poor island, far away and isolated from the rest of Greece. But not only have the people had the meagre soil against them, but for long periods conquerors and bandits ravaged the island. Persians, Genoese, Ottomans, pirates and privateers have historically plagued Ikara to the point where the inhabitants periodically abandoned their houses and moved up into the mountains. There they lived in caves or ‘hidden houses’, dwellings built under or behind large boulders, so that they would not be visible from the sea. At times they were so successful that the island was considered uninhabited.

ABANDONED FARMHOUSE

The house we rent in Maganitis Is quite modern, with two bedrooms, two bathrooms, a dining room and kitchen. But we don’t spend much time indoors here due to the heat. One really irritating factor was the abundance of wasps, always attacking us on the porch. They are probably unusually aggressive due to the late summer heat that has made all the flowers wither. But the Icarians have a special wasp detergent – they pour greek coffee powder on a plate and set fire to it. And it actually works!

BREAKFAST TOOLS
ICARIAN WASP DETERGENT

5 good-to-know-things about Icaria:

  1. Getting there: By air from Athens, or by boat from Piraeus. If you find a cheap flight to Samos You can take a ferry from there.
  2. Stay: A few Air B’n’B:s, most of them in quite remote places. Small hotels are found in the major villages. Karimalis winery (see below!) has Farm Stay.
  3. Best beach: Livadi/Mesachti. Two lovely sand strips next to each other with deck chairs, restaurant/bar and toilet. Simply perfect.
  4. Best food: Karimalis winery in Piyi near Christos. Anna’s fish tavern in Nas. Klimataria in Agios Kirykos. And of course Apostolis in Maganitis.
  5. Don’t miss: Reserve a  rent car well in advance, it’s the only way of getting around. Hike on the old “monopatia”-paths. Tour on horseback or by bike. Swim in the warm spring in Therma. Climb Koskinas Castle, if you’ve got strong legs!
up-arrow Back to top
previous-arrow Continue
Fortsätt läsa här

Vi använder cookies för att anpassa innehåll och annonser, för att tillhandahålla funktioner för sociala medier och för att analysera vår trafik. Vi delar också information om din användning av vår webbplats med våra partners inom sociala medier, annonsering och analys, som kan kombinera den med annan information som du har lämnat till dem eller som de har samlat in från din användning av deras tjänster. Du samtycker till våra cookies om du fortsätter att använda vår webbplats.

Inställningar Inaktivera alla Tillåt alla
Resebloggar finns det gott om men vi har en lite annan tanke med våra berättelser. Vi vill främst beskriva våra upplevelser av udda platser, människorna vi möter och miljöer som är rätt annorlunda mot vad vi möter hemma.

Därför hamnar vi ibland i avlägsna indianbyar i Guatemalas berg eller bland andetroende bybor på en ö i Indonesien. Men också på mer kända platser som Machu Picchu i Peru eller sandstränderna i Goa. Allt sett genom våra ögon och kameror.

Den som vill ha restips får också sitt - varje resmål har en avdelning med sånt vi kan rekommendera. Eller undvika. Vårt fokus är framför allt att sporra er läsare att göra som vi - resa rätt ut i den vida världen.

4. Naturen, maten, tempot!

3. Byfester och varma bad

2. Där historien är levande

1. En helt annan grekisk ö

Avsnitt Ikaria

5. ENGLISH VERSION

4. Nature, food and tempo

3. Village parties and hot baths

2. Where history is alive

1. A different Greek island

Chapters Ikaria

5. SWEDISH VERSION

7. Till sist - Beach Life

6. Historiens lekboll

5. Städer

4. Fördömelsens berg

3. Uppför berg och under jord

2. Den galne diktatorn

1. Kontrasternas land

Avsnitt Albanien

8. ENGLISH VERSION

7. Finally - Beach Life

6. History's little toy

5. Cities

4. The accursed mountains

3. Up the hill and under ground

2. The mad dictator

1. Land of contrasts

Chapters Albania

8. SWEDISH VERSION

9. Unawatuna & Galle

8. Matara

7. Tissamaharama & Yala

6. Nuwara Eliya

5. Kandy del 1 - 2

4. Dambulla

3. Sigiriya

2. Polonnaruwa

1. Colombo del 1 - 2

Avsnitt Sri Lanka

10. ENGLISH VERSION

9. Unawatuna & Galle

8. Matara

7. Tissamaharama & Yala

6. Nuwara Eliya

5. Kandy part 1 - 2

4. Dambulla

3. Sigiriya

2. Polonnaruwa

1. Colombo part 1 - 2

Chapters Sri Lanka

10. SWEDISH VERSION

5. Nikkaluokta - Storforsen

3. Kaalasjärvi - Björkliden - Abisko

2. Rovaniemi & the archipelago

4. Abisko - Nikkaluokta

1. The Kukkola rapids

Chapters Lapland

6. SWEDISH VERSION

5. Nikkaluokta - Storforsen

3. Kaalasjärvi - Björkliden - Abisko

2. Rovaniemi & Haparanda skärgård

1. Kukkolaforsen

Avsnitt Norrland

4. Abisko - Nikkaluokta

6. ENGLISH VERSION

6. Tillbaka till Mumbai

2. Till kusten där hippies lekte

1. Mumbai del 1 -2

Avsnitt Indien

3. Stilla dagar, ekorrar, mat

4. Kryddor och Yoga

5. Tingeltangel och gamla ben

7. ENGLISH VERSION

6. Back to the future

2. Beaches where hippies joyed

1. Mumbai parts 1 -2

Chapters India

3. Lazy days, animals, food

4. Spices and yoga

5. Cheap frills and old bones

7. SWEDISH VERSION

2. Marrakech del 2

1. Marrakech del 1

Avsnitt Marocko

3. Ouarzazate del 1

4. Ouarzazate del 2

5. Merzouga, Draa-dalen
& Marrakech igen

6. ENGLISH VERSION

8. Holbox Island

7. Juchitán & Tehuantepec 2

6. Juchitán & Tehuantepec 1

5. Oaxaca

4. Querétaro

3. Mexico City part 3

2. Mexico City part 2

1. Mexico City part 1

Chapters Mexico

9. SWEDISH VERSION

8. Holbox Island

7. Juchitán & Tehuantepec 2

6. Juchitán & Tehuantepec 1

5. Oaxaca

4. Querétaro

3. Mexico City del 3

2. Mexiko City del 2

1. Mexiko City del 1

Avsnitt Mexiko

9. ENGLISH VERSION

2. Havanna del 2

1. Havanna del 1

Avsnitt Kuba

3. Las Terrazas & Viñales

4. Santa Clara

5. Cienfuegos

6. Las Tunas - Omaja

7. Sierra Maestra del 1

8. Sierra Maestra del 2

9. Cayo Saetía

10. ENGLISH VERSION

2. Havana part 2

Chapters Cuba

3. Las Terrazas & Viñales

4. Santa Clara

5. Cienfuegos

6. Las Tunas - Omaja

7. Sierra Maestra part 1

8. Sierra Maestra part 2

9. Cayo Saetía

1. Havana part 1

10. SWEDISH VERSION

2. Jerusalem part 2

3. Jerusalem part 3

4. Ein Gedi

5. Eilat

6. Petra, Jordan

7. Back to Eilat

1. Jerusalem part 1

Chapters Israel

8. SWEDISH VERSION

2. Jerusalem del 2

3. Jerusalem del 3

4. Ein Gedi, Döda Havet

5. Eilat

6. Petra, Jordanien

7. Tillbaka till Eilat

1. Jerusalem del 1

Avsnitt Israel

8. ENGLISH VERSION

1. Antigua

10. Caye Caulker, Karibien

9. Tikal, mayas megastad

8. Nuevo Horizonte

7. Flores, en stad och en ö

6. Semuc Champey

5. Cobán, hos Joan Stanley

4. Xetinamit, indianbyn

3. Chichicastenango

2. Lago de Atitlán

Avsnitt Guatemala
& Belize

11. San Pedro, Karibien 2.0

12. Isla Mujeres, Mexiko

13. ENGLISH VERSION

1. Antigua

10. Caye Caulker, Caribbean

9. Tikal, maya megacity

8. Nuevo Horizonte

7. Flores, city and island

6. Semuc Champey

5. Cobán, with Joan Stanley

4. Xetinamit

3. Chichicastenango

2. Lago de Atitlán

Chapters Guatemala
& Belize

12. Isla Mujeres, Mexico

11. San Pedro, Ambergris

13. SWEDISH VERSION

1. Singapore

9. Moni, Kelimutu

8. Labuanbajo

7. Bali

6. Medan - Banda Aceh

5. Orangutangernas skog

4. Bukittinggi

3. Cubadak Island

2. Batam - Padang

Avsnitt Indonesien

10. Paga & Maumere

11. ENGLISH VERSION

Chapters Peru & Ecuador1. Lima2. Cusco parts 1 - 43. Punta Sal4. Galapagos parts 1 - 35. Quito parts 1 - 26. La Selva, Amazon parts 1 - 37. Cuenca - Lima8. Paracas - Nazca9. PS: The walls of Lima10. SWEDISH VERSION

5. Pemba del 1 - 2

4. Zanzibar: Matemwe

3. Zanzibar: Stonetown del 1 - 2

2. Safari Serengeti del 1 - 5

Avsnitt Tanzania

1. Dar es Salaam del 1 - 2

6. ENGLISH VERSION

5. Pemba parts 1 - 2

4. Zanzibar: Matemwe

3. Zanzibar: Stonetown parts 1 - 2

2. Safari Serengeti parts 1 - 5

Chapters Tanzania

1. Dar es Salaam parts 1 - 2

6. SWEDISH VERSION

Chapters Indonesia2. Batam - Padang3. Cubadac Island4. Bukittinggi5. Orangutan forest6. Medan - Banda Aceh7. Bali8. Labuanbajo9. Moni - Kelimutu11. SWEDISH VERSION10. Paga - Maumere

1. Singapore

2. Estland 2, Laheema

3. Estland 3, Pärnu

4. Estland 4, Kihnu

5. Litauen 1, Vilnius

6. Litauen 2, Minnesmärken

7. Litauen 3, Klaipeda

1. Estland 1, Tallinn

Avsnitt Estland & Litauen

8. ENGLISH VERSION

2. Estonia 2, Laheema

3. Estonia 3, Pärnu

4. Estonia 4, Kihnu

5. Lithuania 1, Vilnius

6. Lithuania 2, Memorials

7. Lithuania 3, Klaipeda

1. Estonia 1, Tallinn

Chapters Estonia & Lithuania

8. SWEDISH VERSION

2. Marrakech part two

Chapters Morocco

3. Ouarzazate part one

4. Ouarzazate part two

5. Merzouga, Draa,

1. Marrakech part one

10. SWEDISH VERSION

Marrakech return

3. Ovamboland

4. Etosha nationalpark

5. Omaruru

9. Sossusvlei - Swakopmund

6. Grootberg

7. Damaraland

8. Solitaire

8. Solitaire

2. Ondangwa

1. Windhoek

Avsnitt Namibia

10. ENGLISH VERSION

3. Ovamboland

4. Etosha National Park

5. Omaruru

9. Sossusvlei - Swakopmund

6. Grootberg

7. Damaraland

8. Solitaire

8. Solitaire

2. Ondangwa

1. Windhoek

Chapters Namibia

10. SWEDISH VERSION

2. Logroño

Avsnitt Baskien

3. Pamplona

4. San Sebastian del 1

5. San Sebastian del 2

1. Bilbao

6. ENGLISH VERSION

2. Logroño

Chapters Basque

3. Pamplona

4. San Sebastian pt 1

5. San Sebastian pt 2

1. Bilbao

6. SWEDISH VERSION

1. Lima

10. ENGLISH VERSION

9. PS: Murarna i Lima

8. Paracas - Nazca

7. Cuenca - Lima

6. La Selva, Amazonas 1 - 3

5. Quito 1 - 2

4. Galapagos del 1 - 3

3. Mancorakusten

2. Cusco del 1 - 4

Avsnitt Peru & Ecuador

2. Logroño

Chapters Basque

3. Pamplona

4. San Sebastian pt 1

5. San Sebastian pt 2

1. Bilbao

6. SWEDISH VERSION

4. Naturen, maten, tempot!

3. Byfester och varma bad

2. Där historien är levande

1. En helt annan grekisk ö

Avsnitt Ikaria

5. ENGLISH VERSION

5. Nikkaluokta - Storforsen

3. Kaalasjärvi - Björkliden - Abisko

2. Rovaniemi &

Haparanda skärgård

1. Kukkolaforsen

Avsnitt Norrland

4. Abisko - Nikkaluokta

6. ENGLISH VERSION

2. Logroño

Avsnitt Baskien

3. Pamplona

4. San Sebastian del 1

5. San Sebastian del 2

1. Bilbao

6. ENGLISH VERSION

2. Estland 2, Laheema

3. Estland 3, Pärnu

4. Estland 4, Kihnu

5. Litauen 1, Vilnius

6. Litauen 2, Minnesmärken

7. Litauen 3, Klaipeda

1. Estland 1, Tallinn

Avsnitt Estland & Litauen

8. ENGLISH VERSION

7. Till sist - Beach Life

6. Historiens lekboll

5. Städer

4. Fördömelsens berg

3. Uppför berg och

under jord

2. Den galne diktatorn

1. Kontrasternas land

Avsnitt AlbanienAvsnitt Albanien

8. ENGLISH VERSION

2. Jerusalem del 2

3. Jerusalem del 3

4. Ein Gedi, Döda Havet

5. Eilat

6. Petra, Jordanien

7. Tillbaka till Eilat

1. Jerusalem del 1

Avsnitt Israel

8. ENGLISH VERSION

9. Unawatuna & Galle

8. Matara

7. Tissamaharama & Yala

6. Nuwara Eliya

5. Kandy del 1 - 2

4. Dambulla

3. Sigiriya

2. Polonnaruwa

1. Colombo del 1 - 2

Avsnitt Sri Lanka

10. ENGLISH VERSION

6. Tillbaka till Mumbai

2. Till kusten där hippies lekte

1. Mumbai del 1 -2

Avsnitt Indien

3. Stilla dagar, ekorrar, mat

4. Kryddor och Yoga

5. Tingeltangel och gamla ben

7. ENGLISH VERSION

1. Singapore

9. Moni, Kelimutu

8. Labuanbajo

7. Bali

6. Medan - Banda Aceh

5. Orangutangernas skog

4. Bukittinggi

3. Cubadak Island

2. Batam - Padang

Avsnitt Indonesien

10. Paga & Maumere

11. ENGLISH VERSION

3. Ovamboland

4. Etosha nationalpark

5. Omaruru

9. Sossusvlei - Swakopmund

6. Grootberg

7. Damaraland

8. Solitaire

8. Solitaire

2. Ondangwa

1. Windhoek

Avsnitt Namibia

10. ENGLISH VERSION

2. Marrakech del 2

1. Marrakech del 1

Avsnitt Marocko

3. Ouarzazate del 1

4. Ouarzazate del 2

5. Merzouga, Draa-dalen
& Marrakech igen

6. ENGLISH VERSION

5. Pemba del 1 - 2

4. Zanzibar: Matemwe

3. Zanzibar: Stonetown del 1 - 2

2. Safari Serengeti del 1 - 5

Avsnitt Tanzania

1. Dar es Salaam del 1 - 2

6. ENGLISH VERSION

8. Holbox Island

7. Juchitán & Tehuantepec 2

6. Juchitán & Tehuantepec 1

5. Oaxaca

4. Querétaro

3. Mexico City del 3

2. Mexiko City del 2

1. Mexiko City del 1

Avsnitt Mexiko

9. ENGLISH VERSION

2. Havanna del 2

1. Havanna del 1

Avsnitt Kuba

3. Las Terrazas & Viñales

4. Santa Clara

5. Cienfuegos

6. Las Tunas - Omaja

7. Sierra Maestra del 1

8. Sierra Maestra del 2

9. Cayo Saetía

10. ENGLISH VERSION

1. Antigua

10. Caye Caulker, Karibien

9. Tikal, mayas megastad

8. Nuevo Horizonte

7. Flores, en stad och en ö

6. Semuc Champey

5. Cobán, hos Joan Stanley

4. Xetinamit, indianbyn

3. Chichicastenango

2. Lago de Atitlán

Avsnitt Guatemala
& Belize

11. San Pedro, Karibien 2.0

12. Isla Mujeres, Mexiko

13. ENGLISH VERSION

1. Lima

10. ENGLISH VERSION

9. PS: Murarna i Lima

8. Paracas - Nazca

7. Cuenca - Lima

6. La Selva, Amazonas 1 - 3

5. Quito 1 - 2

4. Galapagos del 1 - 3

3. Mancorakusten

2. Cusco del 1 - 4

Avsnitt Peru & Ecuador

9. Unawatuna & Galle

8. Matara

7. Tissamaharama & Yala

6. Nuwara Eliya

5. Kandy part 1 - 2

4. Dambulla

3. Sigiriya

2. Polonnaruwa

1. Colombo part 1 - 2

Chapters Sri Lanka

10. SWEDISH VERSION

6. Back to the future

2. Beaches where hippies joyed

1. Mumbai parts 1 -2

Chapters India

3. Lazy days, animals, food

4. Spices and yoga

5. Cheap frills and old bones

7. SWEDISH VERSION

Chapters Indonesia2. Batam - Padang3. Cubadac Island4. Bukittinggi5. Orangutan forest6. Medan - Banda Aceh7. Bali8. Labuanbajo9. Moni - Kelimutu11. SWEDISH VERSION10. Paga - Maumere

1. Singapore

3. Ovamboland

4. Etosha National Park

5. Omaruru

9. Sossusvlei - Swakopmund

6. Grootberg

7. Damaraland

8. Solitaire

8. Solitaire

2. Ondangwa

1. Windhoek

Chapters Namibia

10. SWEDISH VERSION

2. Marrakech part two

Chapters Morocco

3. Ouarzazate part one

4. Ouarzazate part two

5. Merzouga, Draa,

1. Marrakech part one

10. SWEDISH VERSION

Marrakech return

5. Pemba parts 1 - 2

4. Zanzibar: Matemwe

3. Zanzibar: Stonetown parts 1 - 2

2. Safari Serengeti parts 1 - 5

Chapters Tanzania

1. Dar es Salaam parts 1 - 2

6. SWEDISH VERSION

8. Holbox Island

7. Juchitán & Tehuantepec 2

6. Juchitán & Tehuantepec 1

5. Oaxaca

4. Querétaro

3. Mexico City part 3

2. Mexico City part 2

1. Mexico City part 1

Chapters Mexico

9. SWEDISH VERSION

1. Antigua

10. Caye Caulker, Caribbean

9. Tikal, maya megacity

8. Nuevo Horizonte

7. Flores, city and island

6. Semuc Champey

5. Cobán, with Joan Stanley

4. Xetinamit

3. Chichicastenango

2. Lago de Atitlán

Chapters Guatemala
& Belize

12. Isla Mujeres, Mexico

11. San Pedro, Ambergris

13. SWEDISH VERSION

Chapters Peru & Ecuador1. Lima2. Cusco parts 1 - 43. Punta Sal4. Galapagos parts 1 - 35. Quito parts 1 - 26. La Selva, Amazon parts 1 - 37. Cuenca - Lima8. Paracas - Nazca9. PS: The walls of Lima10. SWEDISH VERSION

2. Havana part 2

Chapters Cuba

3. Las Terrazas & Viñales

4. Santa Clara

5. Cienfuegos

6. Las Tunas - Omaja

7. Sierra Maestra part 1

8. Sierra Maestra part 2

9. Cayo Saetía

1. Havana part 1

10. SWEDISH VERSION

2. Logroño

Chapters Basque

3. Pamplona

4. San Sebastian pt 1

5. San Sebastian pt 2

1. Bilbao

6. SWEDISH VERSION

2. Estonia 2, Laheema

3. Estonia 3, Pärnu

4. Estonia 4, Kihnu

5. Lithuania 1, Vilnius

6. Lithuania 2, Memorials

7. Lithuania 3, Klaipeda

1. Estonia 1, Tallinn

Chapters Estonia & Lithuania

8. SWEDISH VERSION

7. Finally - Beach Life

6. History's little toy

5. Cities

4. The accursed mountains

3. Up the hill and under ground

2. The mad dictator

1. Land of contrasts

Chapters Albania

8. SWEDISH VERSION

2. Jerusalem part 2

3. Jerusalem part 3

4. Ein Gedi

5. Eilat

6. Petra, Jordan

7. Back to Eilat

1. Jerusalem part 1

Chapters Israel

8. SWEDISH VERSION

5. Nikkaluokta - Storforsen

3. Kaalasjärvi - Björkliden - Abisko

2. Rovaniemi & the archipelago

4. Abisko - Nikkaluokta

1. The Kukkola rapids

Chapters Lapland

6. SWEDISH VERSION

4. Nature, food and tempo

3. Village parties and hot baths

2. Where history is alive

1. A different Greek island

Chapters Ikaria

5. SWEDISH VERSION